Beatles

Submarino Amarillo, Round 1

Returning to Cuba was like reuniting with an old friend. The humid air, long lines, and 50s automobiles puffing out smoke, while a nuisance by the end of my time there last winter, were a comfort. I easily made it to my homestay – the house of my “Cuban grandparents,” Angelita and Silvino – and settled in.

The first night, I was too exhausted to interview, but still went to Submarino Amarillo for their cover band (it was Saturday, and Saturdays are the best at Submarino). It was definitely different returning there alone, but it allowed me to take in many observations, both old and new.

Stairs leading down to Submarino Amarillo, located on 17 y 6, Vedado, La Habana
Stairs leading down to Submarino Amarillo, located on 17 y 6, Vedado, La Habana.

It was 8:50 p.m. when the doors opened and we all flooded in, desperate to get a seat and out of a downpour outside. I looked around at my peers. The club doesn’t allow anyone under 18, but other than that, the audience spanned the full range of ages, from 18 to 88, I would say. One of the teenage girls I saw reminded me of the young Cubans of the Beatles’ time: short, purple-dyed hair, leather jacket, and band t-shirt (Red Hot Chili Peppers). I thought I perhaps recognized her – I recognized several people as regulars at Submarino last year. Clearly, the charm of the place doesn’t wear off easily. In fact, people even reserve tables up front or the cushy couches parallel to the stage. In no time, all the Cubans in the bar were taking group selfies and ordering full bottles of rum and cans of TuKola (essentially Coca-Cola), to make their own Cuba Libres.

Weekly cover band schedule at Submarino Amarillo.
Weekly cover band schedule at Submarino Amarillo.

By 8:58, the neon “Submarino Amarillo” sign illuminated the stage. It’s difficult to admire the great decorations in Submarino because it’s just like a submarine: dark, cold, and underground. However, I made out the familiar cut-outs of Blue Meanies and strawberries on the wall, as well as the lyrics from various songs. For the first hour, the music blared from a large screen that plays music videos, beginning with a video for the Beatles’ “You’re Going to Lose that Girl.” As I watched the following videos for songs by the Beatles, Bon Jovi, and Santana, I was reminded of another reason why the Beatles are popular in Cuba today: Cuban sentimentality and stubbornness. When you go to Cuba, it’s practically walking into the 1950s, just with cell phones. And the cell phones barely work on the practically non-existent WiFi. However, despite growing demand for modernization along with the rise of tourism, Cuba refuses to embrace any capitalistic tendencies. It will remain in the 50s for as long as it possibly can. So, popular songs and new trends are slow to arrive in Cuba and slow to depart. Top 40s songs that we Americans overplayed a year or two ago may be popular now and won’t leave for a while. Even in Submarino, the music videos played aren’t current; they’re from 2008 or earlier. I think that in a similar vein, though the Beatles’ music is older, it remains because it reminds Cubans of a different time, one they wish to cling to.

Tables filling up on a Saturday night at Submarino.
Tables filling up on a Saturday night at Submarino.

About an hour in, the room went darker and “Yellow Submarine” played, the cartoon movie on screen. The cover band for the evening, Aire Libre, was familiar to me; seven young musicians – a male and female singer, two male guitarists, a male bassist, a male drummer, and a female pianist. And they rocked. They played a full repertoire, with songs by Of Monsters and Men, the Beatles, Jesse McCartney, Amy Winehouse, Red Hot Chili Peppers, and several more. Their reggae rendition of R.E.M.’s “Losing My Religion” was particularly good. Meanwhile, the Beatles songs they played – “Roll Over Beethoven” and “Come Together” – reminded me of my earlier musing on the emotion of the Beatles. Their songs are fun to sing, to play, and to listen to because you can really get passionate in the moment; it doesn’t matter your age. These young musicians certainly poured their heart and soul into the songs.

Aire Libre, cover band
Aire Libre, cover band.

Something else, however obvious it may be, also showed me why the Beatles are popular in Cuba still: they bring families together. The middle-aged Cubans and the twenty-something Cubans in the bar aren’t ever unrelated; they’re parents and their kids. Parents who grew up listening to the Beatles, kids who grew up listening to their parents’ Beatles tapes. In Cuba, family is far more important than it seems to be in the U.S.;with a huge lack of housing, you’ll often find three generations of a family living under one roof. This necessity can only breed loyalty and respect for pastimes, including listening to the Beatles. My little epiphany would be further corroborated countless time in the following days.

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